It was the first restaurant in Lisbon to achieve a Michelin star and ironic figures such as Charles Aznavour, Gilbert Bécaud and Mireille Robert have been here. This refuge in the heart of Lisbon, with a decor that combines the refinement of works of art – 18th century tile panels, 17th century stone fountains and unique lighting pieces – with a contemporary atmosphere. Its stunning view over the city and the Tagus River inspires us to follow a very unique gastronomic journey, created by chef Nikita.
Tágide is without a doubt one of the most emblematic restaurants in Lisbon. Not only because of its history but because it has managed to wisely preserve the past and connect to the future with a sophisticated environment and modern, ever-present cuisine. Its name comes from the mysticism that links us to the Age of Discoveries, to the beautiful nymphs of the Tagus, the acclaimed “Tágides” by Luís de Camões who influenced him to compose his greatest work “Os Lusíadas”.
And it was on a beautiful spring afternoon that we went to try the Tágide Tasting Menu. From our table we enjoy this peaceful Lisbon where the beauty of the grey sky blends with the calm waters of the Tagus. And at our table, with impeccable service, the Couvert and Amuse-Bouche arrive, small moments that whet the palate for the tasting that follows. And our eyes turn back to the city. Right in front of us, Lisbon City Hall, the Cathedral and the rooftops around Praça do Comércio… in the distance, the South Bank also keeps us company throughout the tasting.
The starter of ‘Peas, bimi, asparagus and wild mushrooms’ has a rich and intense flavor, with the desired comfort. Next comes the ‘Fish sautéed with parsnip and cashew sauce, pumpkin mille-feuille, charcoal-grilled eggplant and purple cauliflower’, light and textured. In turn, the intensity of the meat dish is felt again in an unexpected way with a ‘Lamb loin, wild rice with smoked neck and savoy cabbage, tubers and broad beans’. And in the end, who can resist the ‘Chocolate Forest’?
A combination of very well-made dishes, with seasonal ingredients, textures and a combination of flavors that will leave you feeling indifferent. Portuguese cuisine at its best, served with elegance and generosity, a comfort we like to feel at the table. Delicately pleasant. Chef Nikita’s Tasting Menu is a striking introduction to the season’s most intense flavors. It is original, technical, visually appealing and has flavors that delight and satisfy the most demanding palates, but preferably, it needs to be done with time to be properly appreciated.
Lisbon’s history is also ours, as we live here and walk here every day, we come across its people and places that have been here for centuries, perpetuating the history of our identity. And in this sense, Tágide is one of the most traditional restaurants in Lisbon.
By Carla Branco