The frantic pace of daily life rarely allows us to make our way to the seaside. As much as we might feel like watching the waves crash while having lunch, this scenario isn’t compatible with our routine. But thanks to the restaurant at the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Lisbon – Fontana Park, it’s possible to experience the taste of the sea breeze without leaving the city center.
Making the most of the fresh produce that arrives daily at Mercado 31 de Janeiro, located (literally) across the street, Saldanha Mar, set in this cosmopolitan neighborhood, offers a menu composed almost entirely (80%) of seafood. “The idea is to be a relaxed restaurant, with honest and distinctive food,” explains chef Fábio Leonardo. Having been part of the project for two years, he brings many of his personal experiences, memories, and influences into the dishes he presents, favoring local ingredients and honoring Portuguese cuisine with a contemporary touch.
The menu, which can be enjoyed by both hotel guests and passersby, functions almost like an edible logbook, telling stories such as that of shrimp pil-pil, razor clams grilled naturally, or grandpa João’s cod salad — a reinterpretation of the chef’s grandfather’s typical breakfast. The journey begins with the couvert, which brings aboard Azorean butter (served in a playful sardine shape), marinated olives, Quinta da Boeira olive oil and bread from Alentejo. One of the highlights is the fresh fish sold by weight, which changes according to the day’s catch.
This versatile star ingredient may appear, for example, baked in a salt crust, accompanied by green beans, baby potatoes, carrots, boiled eggs, and sautéed greens, with butter, tomato, or Bulhão Pato sauce, and even a creamy lemon and razor clam rice that transports us to Ria Formosa. Much of the magic happens on the indoor grill, fueled 100% by organic charcoal. Seafood products, paired with wines such as Só Vinha Verde and Megafone, even appear in meat dishes, in subtle touches like seaweed in risotto. That is the essence.
Even the fruit comes from “neighbors” and is sometimes paired with a sponge cake so good it brings tears to your eyes. The meal can be enjoyed indoors or on the terrace, weather permitting. But one thing is certain: at Saldanha Mar, the flag is always green to indulge in the treasures of the Portuguese coast.
By Mariana Coelho
Photos: Vasco dos Santos
INFO: https://saldanhamar.com/