The story of Zé Maria Sultanum is, in many ways, intertwined with the very gastronomic evolution of Fernando de Noronha. When he arrived on the island nearly forty years ago, he found a very different reality from the one that today enchants travelers from all over the world. There was more raw nature than infrastructure, more dirt paths than roads, and supplies arriving from the mainland were rare and difficult to obtain.
A visionary by nature, Zé Maria quickly realized that the development of the island would also depend on creating better supply conditions. This is how Noronhão was born, the first local market, a pioneering initiative that transformed the way residents and visitors accessed essential goods and that remains active to this day.
But it was in his own home that another story began, perhaps even more remarkable. Faced with logistical limitations and the scarcity of ingredients coming from the mainland, Zé started preparing small meals for friends and visitors arriving on the island. With no great ambitions, it was a cuisine made with care, fresh fish, and the genuine pleasure of welcoming others. That simple, almost domestic gesture grew naturally. The house became a meeting point, the meals turned into memorable dinners and, over time, Pousada Zé Maria was born, which today is also home to the renowned Restaurante Zé Maria, one of the most emblematic gastronomic venues on the island.
What began as spontaneous gatherings evolved into a tradition that today forms part of the itinerary of anyone visiting Noronha. Twice a week, by reservation, the famous Zé Maria Gastronomic Festival takes place, a culinary experience that brings together more than forty preparations in a true banquet of flavors. Fresh fish, often caught by the host himself, shares the table with Japanese-inspired dishes, traditional paella, meats, a variety of side dishes, and a dessert table that closes the evening with that rare taste that blends memory, generosity, and celebration.
On a daily basis, the restaurant operates à la carte, except on Wednesday and Saturday nights, when the festival takes center stage. Many of the ingredients used in the kitchen come directly from the pousada’s organic garden, cultivated without pesticides and harvested at the right moment, preserving freshness and authenticity.
But Zé Maria’s contribution to Fernando de Noronha goes far beyond the table. At the head of Além Mar Transportes, his maritime transport company, he actively participates in supplying the island, ensuring the arrival of essential goods for restaurants, markets, and local establishments. With Armazém Além de Tudo, he further expanded this role, strengthening the commercial and logistical structure of the archipelago.
Today, Fernando de Noronha also stands out as a gastronomic destination, where the cuisine reflects the territory, the freshness of the sea, and the sophisticated simplicity of well-treated ingredients. And along this journey, the story of Zé Maria continues to be one of the pillars that helped transform the island not only into a natural paradise but also into a place where hospitality and great food are part of the soul of the destination.