“Beautiful Izmir” is a multicultural relic on the edge of the Aegean Sea that seems to be a continuous and magnificent surprise. The nickname that the Turks colloquially give it promises a lot, but, even with high expectations, such a vast diversity of tourist offerings could hardly disappoint. From ruins of ancient civilizations to splendid beaches and panoramic views of sparkling turquoise waters, to gastronomic experiences and wine routes worthy of gods, Izmir and its surroundings have what it takes to dazzle anyone.
On the beaches that stretch along the entire coastal area of the Çesme district, the warm Aegean Sea mitigates the high temperatures that are felt there. After a swim in the waters of the private sand Altin Yunus Hotel & Spa, we relaxed on sun loungers in the sun, and later in a cooler tent where we were welcomed with drinks and typical snacks, in homage to the Turkish hospitality that was never lacking. Around us, little more could be heard than the waves crashing.
What changes with the seasons in Alaçati is the number of people who fill the narrow and picturesque streets, in the style of the Greek islands, in the city center. Kemalpaşa, the main street, is dedicated almost exclusively to commerce and restaurants. The cozy terraces of bars, cafes and restaurants follow each other, very close together, on the sidewalk. The music that echoes from inside an establishment, where there is a band playing live, merges with that of the next one, and so on, in an amalgam of different songs and styles. As you wander through the main streets, it is easy to become enchanted by the rhythms of the charming and vibrant city.
In Alaçati, rusticity contrasts with opulence. Lying on a sun lounger by the pool at the Antmare Hotel, the Aegean Sea stretched out before me in all its splendour, and the neighboring holiday homes could be seen. “At the door”, small ports boasted, moored, yachts or other private vessels. The same happens in the extensive bay that Izmir surrounds, where the coastline is lined with small restaurants and cafes that delight travelers in search of peace and serenity – sensations that took over us during dinner at Soirée, a seafood restaurant on a deck with panoramic views over the Anatolian horizon.

Within Izmir, however, modernity merges with the rich heritage that various peoples have left there over the millennia, since the third BC. – when, as legend has it, the Amazon queen who gives the city its name founded it. The most typically Asian bazaars are testimony to the incredible mix of the most diverse cultures, traditions and influences that we experienced throughout the trip. Society denotes great openness of mind, always leaving a feeling of acceptance and respect towards others and cultural or religious divergence.
That’s what we felt at Kemeralti Bazaar, a labyrinthine and fascinating market that has been the main center of commerce for locals since the 17th century. Street food exudes intense aromas that reach us from far away, making it impossible to resist traditional delicacies. You see fresh, artisanal produce for sale, as well as an impressive array of rugs and fabrics.
As if the picturesque streets, the markets brimming with life and the idyllic nature that is believed to have inspired Homer to write the epic verses of the Iliad and Odyssey were not enough, western Turkey is still the proud guardian of countless historical pearls dating back to the times of the great Greco-Roman Empire. We had the opportunity to explore the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, where what little remains of the ruins leaves almost everything to the imagination. The Ancient City of Ephesus, on the other hand, is one of the best preserved sites of great archaeological interest in the world. It used to be an influential space for commercial and spiritual exchanges, and is considered one of the largest and most important centers in the ancient Mediterranean world. The experience of being able to see and touch a little of the place’s ancient heritage is magical, mainly because there are no barriers between the visitor and the splendid architectural works that were built there, such as the imposing Library of Celsus.
We had the opportunity to walk through the agora at night, in the light of the moon, and feel the traces of a distant time in the palm of our hands. So close to the true Anatolian wine olympus, we couldn’t miss it. Thanks to the strategic position it occupies, Urla has an ideal climate for grape cultivation, with moist soil and iodized air. In the Urla Sarapcilik vineyard, where we did wine tasting, 20 different varieties grow, with a preponderance of international grapes. The famous Urla Vineyard Route offers award-winning, high-quality wines made from grapes with ancient history. The route also introduces participants to horse farms, boutique hotels and gourmet restaurants, amid relaxing settings with trekking and cycling opportunities.
In the midst of all this, what remains? The impactful sensation of living cities, vibrant and culturally rich cities with a great past but also a great present. And then there are the memorable food and wine experiences. But most of all remain the endless Turkish hospitality and generosity, and the sense of belonging.
By Inês Nunes
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