Portuguese gastronomy is one of our greatest ex-libris as a country and a well-established characteristic within the tourism sector, attracting many visitors. There are many dishes and ingredients that make it up, along with good wines, and each region is strongly characterized by customs and recipes that pass from hand to hand for several generations and still survive today. In this edition, we went to Covilhã, in the middle of Serra da Estrela, to discover some of the best restaurants in the city, including Casa das Muralhas, Taberna A Laranjinha, Varanda da Estrela and Alkimya.
CASA DAS MURALHAS
Casa das Muralhas is a tourism unit with a very charming restaurant, with high ceilings and granite walls, which combines good Portuguese cuisine with the history of a century-old building. The wall of the old Castle today gives its name to the house, which dates back to the mid-19th century and which in 2016 passed to the current owner, Jaime Rendeiro. Chef Simão Ramos presented us with refined cuisine, with genuine and very tempting flavors. Among the starters, highlights include the Mushroom Balls with Aioli, Lime and Ginger sauce and Crispy Serra Cheese and Sausage with Pear Jam; In the main dishes, Tuna Loin with Sesame Seed Cover, drizzled with Ginger sauce and Wasabi Puree; Glazed Boar Loin with Apple, Honey Sauce and Wild Mushroom Brass and Pork Cheeks with Saffron Risotto, Fresh Herbs and Red Wine Sauce. We finished with Kiwi Semifreddo with Chocolate Cake Base and Brownie with Tangerine Ice Cream. Ricardo Pires, director of the restaurant, made the perfect wine pairing to accompany the entire meal. Excellence in service and hospitality that excels in good taste.
TABERNA A LARANJINHA
A Taberna A Laranjinha is a very Portuguese space that has everything we like: a wide variety of snacks, good wines, cheeses and a relaxed atmosphere where we sit at the table in moments of conviviality, we don’t need anything else. Virginia Ramos and Ricardo Ramos are in charge of this project, and despite being practically in the center of the city, we are transported to the most rustic side of the region, where nature is the mother and where their love for this territory can be felt. Among the Tavern’s classics, there is an author’s version of Pastel da Covilhã, a local specialty, but also Partridge Samosas in pickled aromas and spices with apple and quince or Wild Boar in an iron pan, with autumn potatoes, chestnuts and juniper. It is essential to save space for desserts, chestnut cream or peanut brownie and salted caramel ice cream. There are no limits to creativity in the kitchen of chefs João Paulo Carvalho and Patrícia Romeiro. Here we enjoy our meal with soul and a full plate and we want to come back often to try the other dishes on the menu.
VARANDA DA ESTRELA
Anyone who goes up to Serra da Estrela knows that we will be rewarded with a stunning view and Varanda da Estrela is a must-visit space for anyone who passes by. If we imagine those cold winter days, the snow in the mountains, the rustic wooden house and the comfort of the lit fireplace, mixed with the aroma of sausages, cheese and wines – that’s how we feel when we enter Varanda da Estrela. A space where owner David Timóteo created a traditional concept where gastronomy, culture and popular traditions sit with us at the table. Faithful to the use of endogenous products, some specialties of the house stand out, such as Ti Manel’s famous Juniper Rice, a dish full of winter flavors that warms the soul, but also Octopus à Varanda da Estrela, Black Pork Grilled in charcoal and a variety of regional sweets. This is the good side of the mountain, a relaxed space, decorated with mountain crafts, whose DNA is in hospitality and good cuisine. We need to feel this way more often.
ALKIMYA
Located in a central area of the city, in front of the Public Garden, we find Alkimya, a successful venture by owners Jorge Pessoa and Elga Correia. This old building, which was once a library, school and headquarters of the Covilhã’s band, still maintains tall shelves with books, musical instruments and local pieces of art, which gives it an interesting and well-kept environment. More than 80% of the products served here are seasonal and purchased in Cova da Beira. A commitment to the quality of products from local producers but also a commitment to sustainability, with the total abolition of plastic. Tasting Alkimya’s dishes is returning to a place of comfort and the origins of Portuguese tradition but in a cosmopolitan way, where there is also space for vegan and vegetarian dishes. Colorful, careful and very tasty proposals arrive at our table, such as trout escabeche, cod loin or pork cheeks. Highlight for a local delicacy, the famous Papas de Carolo, a typical dessert which is made here in a different way, as the corn semolina is collected in local mills and ground on stone wheels, which gives it a unique texture and a unique flavor. There’s nothing like sitting at the table and enjoying these moments of sharing. We left Covilhã with a full heart and we know that whoever passes by will be well received and well fed!
By Carla Branco
INFO: www.casadasmuralhas.pt . www.instagram.com/taberna_a_laranjinha
www.varandadaestrela.pt . https://restaurantealkimya.wordpress.com